Visit Beung Kan

Situated in Nong Khai Province to the northeast of Thailand, Beung Kan makes a good stopping off point on the way to Laos. This is a quieter alternative to the interesting yet sometimes overwhelming bustling city of Nong Khai. Beung Kan may be quaint, dusty and slightly sleepy, but there is still plenty here for the adventurous to see and do.

A great attraction is the temple of Wat Phu Tok. This temple features six levels of steps, which can be slightly difficult to climb in the heat of the day – it is best to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon. However, the spectacular views over the surrounds countryside from the top more than make up for the effort. This is a absolutely enchanting place, and people are offered the opportunity to get to know it better by staying overnight in one of the dormitories.

A pleasant day trip from Beung Kan is the charming little town of Sangkhom, which looks out on the Lao island of Don Klang. This is the home of several beautiful flowing waterfalls such as Nam Tok Than Thip and Nam Tok Than Thong, which is a great place for swimming and cooling down after a hike through the countryside.

Whilst there, make sure that you check out the pretty little temple of Wat Pa Tak Sua, which is located 4 kilometers from the town and another great hiking destination. Another point of interest is Wat Silawat. Beung Kan, a great place to hire a bicycle and go exploring or go trekking to.

This peaceful village is also a good place to be lazy for a few days and just soak up the stunning scenery, fresh air and tranquility. There are a few local guesthouses where you can indulge in delicious Thai food and practice the simple art of doing nothing

Chill out in Pai

Located halfway between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, Pai is an intimate little village which draws visitors from all over the world with its cool climate, friendly locals and stunning scenery, which includes mountains and waterfalls.

As soon as you arrive in Pai, the fresh mountain air and warm smiles make you feel at home and slow your pace a little. The absolutely stunning scenery is just waiting to be explored, and many people hire bicycles or motorbikes and ride out to the nearby hill tribe villages. The village of Ban Piang Luang makes a good day trip, and the local people are welcoming. Pai has a total population of less than 3,000 people, which gives a real feeling of community, a nice contrast after spending some time in one of Thailand’s bustling cities or busy beach areas.

There are many tiny hill tribe villages located around Pai and hill tribes include Karen, Hmong, Lisu and Lahu. Although usually quite used to tourists by now, many of the hill tribe villagers are shy and should be approached respectfully.

The village of Pai takes its name from the river that runs through the lush valley. There are a few local temples to explore, including the very pretty Wat Luang and Wat Klang and the beautiful forests make a great setting for a soak in the Tha Pai Hot Springs, where you can choose to bath in the incredibly hot water (which can reach scorching temperatures of 200 degrees Celsius) with friends, or treat yourself to a private pool.

Originally a quiet market village inhabited by Shan people, Pai has adapted to provide a haven for the road weary traveler.

The water in Pai is cool and clear, and the waters at Mo Paeng Waterfall are a good place to cool down after a walk through the countryside or a visit at one of the nearby elephant camps.

For shopping, check out the Wednesday Market, when colorful crowds of local villagers and tribal people from all around the Pai Valley gather to trade their wares.

But the main past time in Pai is simply chilling out. With a large variety of guest houses, restaurants, bars and cinema rooms, this is a perfect place to learn the art of relaxation.

Take a trip to Chiang Mai

Located just east of Chiang Mai, the city of Chiang Rai was founded by King Mengrai in 1262 and the centrally located King Mengrai the Great Memorial depicts the king in all his former glory.

This is a great place to visit if you appreciate cool weather, walking amongst attractive natural scenery, good food and chilling out in a city that has all the charm and atmosphere of a small village.

The city of Chiang Rai has a rather sleepy, relaxed feel to it, and exploring the streets can yield some interesting sights. The pure white temple of Wat Rong Khum has to be seen to be believed, whilst Wat Phra Kaeo is the original home of the Emerald Buddha, now located in the temple of the same name in Bangkok.  Also worth exploring are Wat Pa Sak and Wat Phra That Doi Tung.

Although not as large as its neighbour in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai’s Night Bazaar is a great place to pick up a bargain or two, whilst the sleepy village of Chiang Saen with its interesting history, warm welcome and architecture is a great place for a day trip.

But it is Chiang Rai’s natural beauty that draws most visitors to the area. As well as enchanting jungle waterfalls such as Khun Korn Waterfall and Pong Phra Bat waterfall, there are also dozens of hot springs scattered around the area, where you can soak up the goodness of meltingly hot water and natural minerals either in public pools or secluded in your own private tub. Look out for the Pha Soet Hot Springs and Huai Hin Fon Hot Springs and Waterfall with its stunning jungle backdrop. What could be better than listening to the insects and wind in the trees as you enjoy a good soak?

The Hilltribe Museum and Education Centre is a great place to learn about the local people before going on a trek, and The Hall of Opium museum also provides a lot of interesting information about life in the area, both past and present.

No visit to the area would be complete without a trip to the absolutely stunning Phu Chi Fa Forest Park, and animal lovers can get up close and personal with the elephants at the Mae Sa Elephant Training Center.

Cook up a storm in Chiang Mai

Taking an authentic Thai cookery class in Chiang Mai makes a great break from sightseeing and is also a way to learn new skills.

As a group, participants are driven a short distance to the local market, where the instructor introduces Thailand’s fruit and vegetables. The various ingredients that make up pad Thai: glass noodles, bean sprouts and tofu, which comes in large blocks are all available from the same stall.

After a short introduction it is time to get cooking. The schools offer different programs to choose from and chefs usually start with Pad Thai as this dish takes just a few minutes to cook.

During the class, participants generally prepare and cook around eight dishes, including spring rolls, Tom Yam Goong and chicken with cashew nuts. Once the cooking is complete, it is time to eat.

Information:

The courses usually take place from 9:30 – 4:30 and cost around 800 Baht per day. 2 and 3-day courses are also available.

Conquering Wat Doi Suthep

Wat Prathap Doi Suthep is located about 20 miles from Chiang Mai, Thailand’s northern capital, at an elevation of 3,520 meters above sea level and the view over Chiang Mai from here is simply spectacular.

The temple grounds of Wat Prathap Doi Suthep, situated at the top of the mighty Doi Suthep Mountain, are large and interesting, full of towering chedis, enormous bells and intricate stone carvings.

The Buddhist temple of Wat Prathap Doi Suthep was founded in 1383 under unusual circumstances. A famous Thai legend tells that in the 14^th century a monk from Sukhothai had a dream telling him to go to Pang Cha and look for a relic. Upon following the directions of the dream the monk found what is believed to be the Lord Buddha’s shoulder bone.

Wat Prathap Doi Suthep is highly revered and a major pilgrimage destination during Buddhist holidays, especially Makha Buja and Visak. Around Wat Prathap Doi Suthep are 47 murals that illustrate the past loves of the Buddha and of the Jataka Buddha before he became enlightened.

Another focal point of the temple is the large chedi, which is bell-shaped and formed in the Lanna style. There is also a model of the Emerald Buddha and a statue of the multiple-armed elephant-headed Hindu god Ganesh.

Wat Prathap Doi Suthep is situated around 22 miles from the city of Chiang Mai. There is a winding road to the top of the mountain, but it is extremely steep. As I amble back down the mountain I pass a group of red-faced cyclists, who are clearly regretting their choice of transportation.

Getting There

The easiest way to reach Wat Doi Suthep is to go by songthew, which is a small open-backed truck with two rows of wooden benches running down the sides. You can catch a songthew from the market area at the corner of the Manneenopparat and Chotana Roads. Expect to pay around 150 baht for a return journey.

What to do in Chiang Mai

Often referred to as the ‘Rose of the North’, Chiang Mai is a great place to lose yourself for a week or two. The Old City is a great place to explore, where surprises wait around every corner, or why not go on a cycling tour with the Chiang Mai Cycle Club.

With prices often markedly less than in Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a great place to go shopping. Chiang Mai Night Bazaar is world famous and definitely should not be missed. The quaint umbrella village of Bo Sang makes a great place for a day trip and Talat Warorot is a good place to buy local produce, with prices to match.

Chiang Mai is a good place for self improvement and there are numerous courses and classes available. This is a great place to cook up a storm in a cookery class, and meditation courses always prove popular, whilst the sporty can learn a new skill at the Muay Thai Boxing Camp.

The stunning local scenery also provides a good backdrop for a range of sports such as Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures, and both Chiang Mai Flying Club and Oriental Balloon Flights provide a new perspective on the area.

What to expect from the ‘Rose of the North’

Situated in the north of Thailand, Chiang Mai Province is full of natural beauty spots such as Doi-Suthep-Pui National Park, Thap Lan National Park, Buak Hat Park and dozens of inviting waterfalls, among which Huay Kaew falls, Mae Sa Waterfall and Wachiratharn Waterfall should not be missed. The area is also a great place for bird watching, so make sure you bring your binoculars.

The capital of Chiang Mai Province is Chiang Mai city, which is the second largest city in Thailand and forms the focus point for travel to the north. Thousands of people visit Chiang Mai every year, drawn by its rich culture, cool climate and wide range of entertainment options.

Chiang Mai boasts over 300 temples, of which Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, situated atop Doi Intanon – Thailand’s biggest mountain – is probably the most famous. Other temples worth seeing include the ancient Wat Chiang Man, Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang and the tranquil forest temple of Wat U-Mong.

The city of Chiang Mai was founded by King Mengrai in 1296, and a tribute to the great king can be seen in the Three Kings Monument. Both the informative Chiang Mai City Art and Cultural Center and the nearby Chiang Saen National Museum are good places to discover more of the area’s interesting history and you can take a course or use the facilities at Chiang Mai University.

Where will you be watching the World Cup?

Yes it’s finally here! World Cup fever is sweeping Thailand and putting the bad blood of recent months firmly into the shade. Although Thailand failed to qualify for this year’s tournament, this football-crazy nation will be glued to the box as every game is hyper-analysed and debated for thirty thrilling days of soccer mayhem.

It seems that wandering around Chiang Mai at the moment that people have already adopted their uniform of choice. England shirts, France, Spain and, of course, Brazil are all well represented in the affections of Thai footie fans. And I’m sure the Japanese and Korean contingent living here will make themselves heard, as well as the farang army in full boisterous voice.

I am lucky enough to be jetting off to South Africa for a couple of weeks to follow The Three Lions at the coalface. This will surely be a memorable trip for a number of reasons, but a part of me is glad that I’ll be returning to watch the climax of the event here in Chiang Mai. I’ll be happiest propping up the bar at my favourite watering hole of Small House (in the small square opposite Hillside Condo 4 off Huay Kaew) supping a Leo and arguing over the latest refereeing catastrophe.

The bar is sure to be a bastion of Anglo-pride despite the vehement protestations of the American-Thai owners. However, despite the undoubted humiliation of the USA team in the group rounc, the chances of England being involved in the final stages being very slim indeed.

Khao soi, food of the gods!

I am addicted to Khao Soi. The soft egg noodles with chicken in spicy yellow curry sauce topped with crispy fried noodles is probably the most divine dish I’ve ever tasted. It is also one of the main reasons why I may never be able to leave Chiang Mai, my stints by the coast always characterised with fretful sleep, terror sweats and nightmares of drowning in sweet coconut milk with yellow doughy strings wrapped around my neck.

So the question remains, where is the best Khao Soi to be found in Chiang Mai? A great example is available at Kharmin on Nimmanhaeman Soi 5. The bowl is huge with a deep brown curry and all manner of meat choices available including sumptuous turmeric pork. At 50 baht it is a little expensive for what is essentially street food, but the comfortable surroundings and free WiFi makes this extra trifle more than worthwhile.

Inside Wat Chedi Luang, on Rachadamneon Road in the old town, there is a small food court area with hawkers selling pork leg stew, pad thai and a very passable Khao Soi. Again the flavour is that dense curry sort from the far north of Thailand – Chiang Mai varieties tend to be more coconut-based – and the meat not of brilliant quality. But it is an extremely tasty offering with the use of paper bowls and wooden spoons the only real drawback.

Now for the pre-tournament favourite – Just Khao Soi on Charoejprathet Road near the River Ping. This restaurant serves the iconic dish on an artist’s palate with all the necessary accompaniments (pickled cabbage, shallot shards, fish sauce, chilli etc) arranged around the bowl. Unfortunately I must say this is undoubtedly the most disappointing Khao Soi I’ve ever tasted.

They claim to only serve organic Chicken, but how would I know? I’ve eaten a bowl and still have not met any! The portion of meat is tiny, the sauce was watery and the noodles were more akin to shiny tagliatelle than true eggy goodness. And for a truly extortionate price of 150 baht I was expecting to be rolling around the floor in ecstasy.

No, the best Khao Soi in town is from the central foodcourt in Kad Suan Kaew shopping mall. For 30 baht you get a steaming bowl of rich, intense curry soup with masses of diced chicken breast and a sprinkling of creamy coconut milk. It may not have the must salubrious surroundings, but the taste and texture truly cannot be beat.

Visa run blues

The hastily imposed curfew actually came at the best time for my girlfriend and I this week, as we were forced to embark on a visa run to Mae Sae at 07:00. This chore is not the most enjoyable experience in the world, and normally we choose to hike down to arcade bus station in the week, booking tickets to Mae Sae and returning on a appointed morning for our departure. Then you must jump in a Songthaew for the last part of the journey and battle through the mechanisms of Burmese bureaucracy at the other side.

But this time we decided to take the express visa run minibus which promised to pick us up from our apartment, ferry us directly to the border and then transport us swiftly back in plenty of time for a shower and leisurely dinner. But raising our rum-addled heads at the ungodly appointed hour, we were forced to wait 90 minutes outside our home before the bus decided to turn up. Cue four hours of listening to an annoying Kiwi rabbit on to all and sundry in the most conceited of tones (thank heavens for iPods!) and the bumpiest journey in recent memory.

The border crossing itself was a breeze and we managed to pick up enough duty free booze to pickle a hippo, but when annoying Kiwi returned he (despite previously proclaiming to be an expert on all things) hadn’t managed to read the date stamp on his passport properly and had overstayed his multiple-entry visa, registering it null and void. After spending an hour waiting for him to return we were finally on our way. Needless to say I doubt these minibus express vans are  worth the hassle, and we shall be doing the journey via public bus next time.