The charms of Doi Inthanon National Park

Doi Inthanon is Thailand’s highest mountain peak and the focal point of the national park named after it. Temperatures in Chiang Mai often hit 40° at this time of year. The upper regions of the park and around the summit of Inthanon are generally a lot cooler and in winter sometimes drop to 0° and produce that tropical rarity, a ground frost.

The front entrance to Inthanon park near Chom Thong is around 100kms drive from Chiang Mai. There is also a back way in through Mae Win which bypasses the ticket booth and paying the park admission fee. The only snag with this route is that it is tortuous and steep and only suitable for 4WD vehicles and trial bikes.

Taking the main entrance in, the route passes a side road to the stunningly beautiful Wachirathan Waterfalls.  A little farther along are a restaurant and a small market, where dried fruits and other local produce is on sale. People with an interest in birds may espy a number of the 360 species that are indigenous to the park on the pastoral road that meanders up the mountain.

Just off the main road near the top of Doi Inthanon are two facing pagodas (chedis) which were built to honour current Thai King Bhumibol Adulyadej on his 60^th birthday. Due to their high altitude, these two magnificent structures are often shrouded in mist. There are colourful gardens here which contain lots of orchids. At the summit there is a meteorological station.

English style pubs and beer in Chiang Mai

Due to a large expat population and plentiful numbers of foreign visitors every year, Chiang Mai has a good choice of Western style pubs and eateries. Choices include English, Irish and German. Draught Guinness is a staple at most of these pubs, but it is bit heavy for tropical heat. A personal preference is English pubs as they tend to carry refreshing ciders and some kind of ale.

The oldest established of the English style taverns is imaginatively named The Pub. What this Huay Kaew Road establishment lacks in its name is more then compensated for by its décor and charming ambience. The Pub serves Kilkenny, Guinness and a selection of local beers as well as great pub grub and Sunday roasts. The Red Lion is close to the Night Bazaar and a popular tourist haunt. This pub stocks bottled London Pride bitter and a selection of Belgian and German beers.

The Queen Victoria is at the heart of the old city, just down the road from the Three Kings’ Monument, and does a great pint of Strongbow cider. The Olde Bell is midway down Loi Kroh Road, between the moat and the Night Bazaar. Chiang Mai’s own Doi Suthep Ale is on tap here. The English-Indian curry is not a bad choice for sustenance either.

An evening at the Night Safari

The Chiang Mai Night Safari became this northern Thai city’s second zoo when it officially opened in February 2006. It followed the example set by a similar attraction in Singapore and focuses on the nocturnal habits and lives of animals collected from all over the world. The Night Safari is currently home to around 700 animals which are separated into three zones.

The Savanna Zone has 34 species among which are giraffes, wildebeests and white rhinoceroses. Carnivorous creatures are contained within the Predator Prowl Zone and these include Asiatic black bears, crocodiles and tigers. The Jaguar Trail Zone allows visitors the opportunity of strolling around a picturesque lake with gardens and some tamer species en route. Tram tours transport visitors around the safari park in the evening. There are departures at regular intervals.

There are also several evening shows staged here. The elephant show features Nam Waan giving a brief display of her skills. One of the world’s biggest musical fountains is turned on for shows twice every evening. The onsite digital zoo is a distinctive draw that is popular with youngsters. The Night Safari is open every day from 11:00 to 22:00. The Night Safari website gives details of the various different show times, English language guided tram tours and admission prices.

A taste of Germany in Chiang Mai

The choice of cuisine in Chiang Mai ranges from simple rice and noodle dishes through to cosmopolitan offerings from countries as diverse as Israel, Germany and Mexico. The Chiang Mai German Microbrewery offers diners and beer lovers a real taste of Germany with a selection of authentic draught beers and culinary gems.

The microbrewery is a little way out of the city. Most taxi and tuk tuk drivers in the city know it and asking for rongbeer will usually get a quote for a fare. The premises resemble a large beer hall. There is a stage at the front which has live bands from 20:00 onwards. A choice of wurst sausages, the ubiquitous German pork knuckle and sauerkraut appear on a menu that also has a great selection of Thai dishes.

The German style beers served here are brewed on the premises, with big copper vats providing ample evidence of this. The beers contain no chemical additives, unlike Thai Singha beer, and come in six different options, which are pilsener, OktoberFest, weizen, weizen bock, dunkel and lager.

A personal preference is the darker dunkel. People who like strong beers will find the 7.5 per cent alcohol content in weizen bock does the trick nicely. During the June to September rainy season, the microbrewery used to run a two-for-one happy hour from 16:00 to 20:00 that drew in a regular clientele. No announcement so far this year. Additional details are available on the Chiang Mai German Microbrewery’s website.

All roads lead to Thapae Gate

As Thailand prepares to welcome the Lanna New Year today, thousands of Chiang Mai residents will be heading to the central part of the city. The square at Thapae Gate, part of the old city walls, is where the two principal activities that mark the Songkran Festival cross paths. A procession of colourful floats sets out from Nawarat Bridge and travels up Thapae Road and across the square before going to Wat Pra Singh Temple.

The city moat intersects the parade route at Thapae Gate. Roads running around both sides of the moat are the setting for water battles with everyone a legitimate target. Most Thais load up the family pick-up truck with a large water container and then drive slowly around the moat roads. People in the back of the pick-ups fight water battles with combatants on the sides of the moat. Weapons range from small buckets to state-of-the-art water pistols.

People walking around the central areas of the city over the next three days will find it very difficult to stay dry, but hey it is the hot season and temperatures are forecast to hit 38°C later today, so clothes soon dry quickly. A peek inside temple compounds over Songkran will give glimpses of time-honoured customs. Residents visit the temples to give alms to saffron-robed monks, build sand pagodas and generate good fortune for the coming year by pouring jasmine-scented water over Buddha statues.

Water fights on the streets of Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai residents, expats and tourists will celebrate one of the biggest festivals on the city’s calendar next week. Songkran Festival marks the traditional Lanna New Year and is commemorated with pitched battles on the streets of this northern Thai city. Fortunately it is water, and not live ammunition, that is used to fill water pistols, water cannons and any other article suitable for soaking people.

The focal point of this massive water fight is the moat that surrounds the old city district of Chiang Mai. Revellers line both sides of what is known as kru muang and soak each other and also people in the back of the convoy of pick-up trucks that travels slowly around the moat’s adjacent roads. The sight of people shooting jets of water at each other and the accompanying shouts of glee is not easily forgotten.

Songkran Festival is officially the three days between 13 and 15 April, but people outside the city tend to get an early start and anybody riding a motorcycle on roads in the environs of the city is considered a soft target. This sounds unpleasant, but is not actually too bad because daytime temperatures at this time of year are usually well over 35°C.

On 13 April, city authorities stage a colourful parade featuring floats festooned with flowers and other ornamentation. A local beauty sits atop each float and provides its crowning glory. People and dancers dressed in traditional Lanna costumes are also part of the parade. The Songkran parade begins at Nawarat Bridge and then wends its way up Thapae Road, across the square at Thapae Gate and onwards to Pra Singh Temple.

Gymkhana Club to host annual cricket sixes

Chiang Mai’s Gymkhana Club is once again the venue for the eagerly-awaited annual Cricket Sixes this year. The first of the amateur games is scheduled for Sunday 1 April. This year’s cricket extravaganza is being sponsored by the San Miguel brewing company and promises to be extra special as it is the 25^th birthday of the event.

There are five cups up for grabs and these are Bowl, Plate, Bromley Shield, Cup and Spoon. The latter is a contest for social cricketers while those playing in the first two have usually played a few games before. Teams usually put their entry forms in several months prior to the actual Cricket Sixes, but there are often vacancies on the day.

Heats for the various cups are played throughout the week until the final day on Saturday 7 April. People not playing can sit under one of the awnings placed around the pitch boundaries. Although the lofty trees and verdant greens at the Gymkhana help keep the stifling heat at this time of year at bay, the refreshing beverages at the San Miguel beer tent offer that little extra help. The Gymkhana Club is on the east side of the River Ping, adjacent to the Chiang Mai-Lampun Road.

The charms of Doi Suthep

Wat Prathap Doi Suthep, or Doi Suthep Temple, is one of Chiang Mai’s finest tourism attractions. The original temple is believed to date from the 14^th century and its site on the lofty mountain was said to have been chosen by a white elephant which trumpeted in triumph at the spot and then laid down and died. One of the attractions at Doi Suthep is the White Elephant Shrine.

The 20km long road up Suthep Mountain is a meandering and steep one. It is not an easy motorcycle ride or drive. Red songthaew taxis are the most comfortable means of reaching the temple. People can hire them on the streets of the city for the trip at a cost of around 500 Baht for the round trip. Another option is to take a shared songthaew from Chang Phuak Gate or outside the zoo. These taxis wait until they have around eight passengers and have fixed prices which are 40 Baht up and 30 Baht for the return leg.

Visitors are usually dropped off at the bottom of the 309 steps that lead to the front entrance of the temple. There is a tram service for those who do not want to climb on hot days. People entering the actual temple compound need to take off their shoes and have their legs covered. There were sarongs available on my last visit for those wearing shorts.

The golden chedi, a line of bells, a replica of the Emerald Buddha, an effigy of the Hindu god Ganesh and the White Elephant are attractive sights here. The parapet facing towards Chiang Mai offers spectacular views of the city and the verdant countryside surrounding it. Because of the dust haze currently hovering over the northern regions of Thailand it is probably better to visit Doi Suthep Temple in the morning when it is not quite as bad.

Adventure treks from Chiang Mai

Thirty years ago Chiang Mai was a sleepy town primarily on Southeast Asian tourism itineraries due to being a base for adventure treks into the pristine jungles and mountains surrounding it. Times have changed and the Northern Thai city is now a cosmopolitan location, yet still has a thriving trekking scene. A walk around the Thapae Gate or Night Bazaar precincts will reveal shops offering treks. Companies such as Chiang Dao Nest allow prospective trekkers to book their trips online.

Treks vary in length and can last from one to five days and typically include several hours walking, an elephant ride and a bamboo raft trip on a river. With prices of around 2,000 Baht for a three-day trek, this has to be one of the best travel bargains ever. Trekking firms use different areas for trips with Chiang Dao, Maewin and Doi Inthanon among popular options. Multi-day trips typically require trekkers to stay overnight in remote hilltribe villages.

The villages are the residences of ethnic people such as the Karen, Hmong, Lisu and Akha. Accommodation is rustic and usually in a wooden house raised on stilts. Due to the amount of walking up and down hill paths a reasonable level of fitness is required, but the only other necessities are a pair of trainers or walking boots, a water-bottle and a warm jacket in winter. People booking treks from Chiang Mai shops should ensure they employ TAT accredited guides.

Chiang Mai hotel attracting more than just tourists

A new take: Silapa's turmeric-fried chicken is one of the hightlights

Having been a hit with high-class Chiang Mai tourists since its opening in 2007, it seems the Shangri-La Hotel on Chang Klan Road has found a way to woo locals as well, with great food and drink. Previously serving ‘Thaipas’ – miniature mix-and-share Thai dishes – the Silapa Lounge and Bar is proving that big is back in the world of fine dining.

With interesting creations such as spicy mushroom salad, roasted duck and pineapple curry, and river prawns in tamarind sauce – all in decidedly large portions – word is quickly getting around that top-notch Thai with a twist has found a new home in the city. Marinated in turmeric and subtle spices, even the fried chicken here has something of the exotic about it.

Despite putting the concept of fusion aside in the menu, the restaurant decor is a real concoction of influences and styles. Ornate touches complement the sleek black furnishings and dramatic lighting, giving any occasion a glamorous gild.

What’s more, the cocktail list is inspired, with many creations, like the berry and capsicum martini and the Thaipolitan, exclusive to the Silapa Bar. These, along with the live entertainment and a 1:00 closing time, are keeping Chiang Mai’s ‘high-so’ dinner and drinks crew out past its bedtime.

So now the fussy locals are taken care of, all that’s left is to keep impressing the tourists. With glass-walled bathrooms (so you can watch TV in the tub), a free-form outdoor pool and a world-class spa, it seems the Shangri-La has everyone smiling!

The 281-room hotel is located in the prime area of Chang Klan Road, a few steps from the famous night bazaar and only 10 minutes drive from the domestic and international airports.  It is situated within nearly seven acres of green lawns, frangipani, bamboo, ginger and lotus ponds.

The decoration is influenced by the city’s 700-year history and Northern Thailand “Lanna” cultural heritage, with a generous use of teak and open, light-filled spaces filled with local artifacts and rich fabrics in regal colours. Guests at Shangri-La Hotel, Chiang Mai can enjoy unlimited wireless Internet access in all 281 guestrooms, public areas, restaurants, lounge, executive club lounge and function venues.

Hotel guests are in an ideal location to explore one of the few places in Thailand in which centuries-old temples and religious monuments stand next to modern boutiques in the heart of the city. Not far from the hotel’s doorstep, guest can enjoy the charms of the city centre, from riverside cafes serving locally grown coffee, to bookstores, flower markets, and numerous soi’s (alleyways) that give Chiang Mai its unmistakable character.