Best of French in old Chiang Mai

Posted by admin on April 12th, 2010 filed in Living here, tourist tips

Francophile lovers of haute cuisine are in for a real treat. Secreted in the old city on Raatchadamnoen Road – next to the Writer’s Club – is an understated guesthouse and restaurant which served up delicious Gallic fare at reasonable rates.

Le Bateau Ivre (or the drunken boat) is named after a famous French poem by Arthur Rimbaud. The eclectic menu features plenty of classic French dishes such as coq au vin, duck confit, chicken liver salad and chicken cordon bleu. Available is good quality wine (150baht a glass) and a peaceful ambience. There is a full traditional Thai menu also on offer, but personally I couldn’t bring myself to eat another tom yam goong with such a litany of continental treats on offer.

And 300 baht for an enormous thick tenderloin with sautéd potatoes and creamy pepper sauce is just the ticket. Although the meat was pretty tough – as is generally the way with Thai beef – it was lovingly prepared a gorgeous crimson medium-rare and expertly seasoned.

The trouble-and-strife chose the mussels in white wine sauce which was again a pure delight. The decedent sauce was rich enough to shame a Rockafeller but utterly delicious with it. Above the restaurant is a minimalist guesthouse which looks tastefully decorated and reasonably priced. But the heart of the building is certainly the kitchen and I heartily recommend sampling the menu.