Khao soi, food of the gods!

Posted by admin on May 26th, 2010 filed in Living here, tourist tips

I am addicted to Khao Soi. The soft egg noodles with chicken in spicy yellow curry sauce topped with crispy fried noodles is probably the most divine dish I’ve ever tasted. It is also one of the main reasons why I may never be able to leave Chiang Mai, my stints by the coast always characterised with fretful sleep, terror sweats and nightmares of drowning in sweet coconut milk with yellow doughy strings wrapped around my neck.

So the question remains, where is the best Khao Soi to be found in Chiang Mai? A great example is available at Kharmin on Nimmanhaeman Soi 5. The bowl is huge with a deep brown curry and all manner of meat choices available including sumptuous turmeric pork. At 50 baht it is a little expensive for what is essentially street food, but the comfortable surroundings and free WiFi makes this extra trifle more than worthwhile.

Inside Wat Chedi Luang, on Rachadamneon Road in the old town, there is a small food court area with hawkers selling pork leg stew, pad thai and a very passable Khao Soi. Again the flavour is that dense curry sort from the far north of Thailand – Chiang Mai varieties tend to be more coconut-based – and the meat not of brilliant quality. But it is an extremely tasty offering with the use of paper bowls and wooden spoons the only real drawback.

Now for the pre-tournament favourite – Just Khao Soi on Charoejprathet Road near the River Ping. This restaurant serves the iconic dish on an artist’s palate with all the necessary accompaniments (pickled cabbage, shallot shards, fish sauce, chilli etc) arranged around the bowl. Unfortunately I must say this is undoubtedly the most disappointing Khao Soi I’ve ever tasted.

They claim to only serve organic Chicken, but how would I know? I’ve eaten a bowl and still have not met any! The portion of meat is tiny, the sauce was watery and the noodles were more akin to shiny tagliatelle than true eggy goodness. And for a truly extortionate price of 150 baht I was expecting to be rolling around the floor in ecstasy.

No, the best Khao Soi in town is from the central foodcourt in Kad Suan Kaew shopping mall. For 30 baht you get a steaming bowl of rich, intense curry soup with masses of diced chicken breast and a sprinkling of creamy coconut milk. It may not have the must salubrious surroundings, but the taste and texture truly cannot be beat.