Standard single fares on the Green Bus to Mae Sai are 212 Baht, slightly more than the regular air-conditioned buses, but well worth it for the extra comfort. The trip takes around 4 hours 30 minutes and stops in Chiang Rai en route. On previous trips the bus only used to stop at the new bus station there, but it seems that this facility is too far out of town as most buses go to the old station in central Chiang Rai as well now.

Once in Mae Sai it is a 15 Baht songthaew taxi trip to Friendship Bridge 1 and the Thai and Myanmese immigration posts. Motorcycle taxis are available for those wishing to get to the bridge quickly. The visa fee for Myanmar should be $US10, yet Myanmese immigration officers usually ask for 500 Baht. This is considerably more at current exchange rates. It is worth offering the greenback as the officers will accept it if you stand your ground and wait for a few minutes.

There is a small market in Tachilek on the Myanmese side of the border where fake cigarettes and DVDs, and cheap Chinese products are among items on sale. Most of the products are also now sold in the market in Mae Sai, which meanders through the back streets on the west side of the Friendship Bridge. After a little shopping, macadamia nuts and sunflower seeds are tasty snacks for the ride back, it was time to take a songthaew to the bus station for the last Green Bus to Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai was dry, although there a few puddles that indicated recent rain, and there was no sign of the flooding that had left some areas of the city knee-deep in water. Chang Klan Road, location of the Night Bazaar, and the banks of the River Ping had been awash, but this soon cleared. Apart from a few spots of rain the other morning, the nearest I have been to any flooding is watching the news on TV as the run-off from the north creeps inexorably towards central Bangkok.

Chiang Mai is now heading into the winter season and there will probably be little rain until the onset of the monsoon season next June. From now until mid-February is the best time of year to visit Chiang Mai. Days mostly have brilliant sunshine with average temperatures of 30°C, while the evenings are warm enough to get away with a light jumper, unless heading out into the countryside on a motorcycle. It is the season for flowers such as bua tong as well as strawberries and pomelos.

Both options have their plus and negative sides. Travelling from Chiang Mai to Mae Sai takes around five hours and then it is a short songthaew taxi ride to the Thai Immigration Office. Visitors pay $US10, or an exorbitant 500 Baht if they do not have a nice crisp bill, to enter Myanmar. The only problem with this crossing is the multitude of beggars on the bridge and the hawkers in Tachilek who seem to think all foreigners need to take 10 cartons of cigarettes and 50 viagra tablets back to Thailand with them.

In comparison, Chang Khong and Huay Xai are relaxing towns that face each other across the Mekhong River. Visa runners traverse the river by ferry at the moment, but a bridge under construction will eventually replace the boats. The $US35 (or 1300 Baht) cost of the visa is more than at Tachilek and the Chiang Mai-Chang Khong bus journey usually works out at about six hours.

For the sum of 518 Baht I was given a ticket for the air-conditioned 13:30 afternoon bus and told that the journey time would be no more than nine hours. The cost compares favourably with the fares for trains, a fan sleeping berth on the slow train is around 550 Baht, and beats travel times hands down as rail journeys from Chiang Mai to Bangkok take up to 14 hours assuming they manage to leave on time.

After boarding the bus for my trip, the hostess gave out cakes and snacks. The journey at this time of the year offers views of verdant forests and countryside. After descending the hills near Lampang, the constant drizzle finally stopped. The bus stops in the region of Nakon Sawan for 30 minutes and passengers are given a complimentary meal.

The bus arrived at Morchit Bus Terminal at 23:00, a great time for missing the daytime hustle and bustle of Bangkok’s busiest inter-provincial transport terminus. It didn’t take long to find a taxi for hire, which sped me to my final destination on traffic-free roads.

The curry broth is made with a base of chilli-paste and coconut cream and, when it is served in restaurants, garnishes of pickled cabbage, shallots, a thick chilli sauce and lime. Those who are not partial to Thai meat cuts can choose meatballs or even vegetarian options in some locations.

Small cafés and restaurants dotted around the city serve khao soi and can usually be identified by glass cases with stocks of uncooked egg noodles sitting beside a pile of crispy deep-fried ones. Khao Soi Faham and Lamduan Kao Soi are two long-established restaurants on the River Ping’s east bank which offer tasty renditions of the dish, while a booth in the Galare Food Centre, opposite the Night Bazaar, is a convenient choice for visitors who do not want to venture too far.

The two most popular of these dining centres for Western visitors are the Galare Food Centre and Anusarn Night Market. Both of these venues are just off Changklan Road and near the Night Bazaar and the main city Mcdonald’s. Signboards indicate the entry points.

Of the two, I prefer to eat at the Galare as it has ubiquitous Thai specialities which include fried rice, papaya salad, barbecued chicken, sticky rice and Kow Soy curry noodle soup as well as Indian dishes and falafels from Israel.

The two locations usually open for business at around 18:00, but some vendors set up shop earlier. During the afternoon the drinks booth at the Galare sells guava juice, iced tea, cool Elephant beer and other refreshing beverages. The lofty trees that shade the outdoor area offer a modicum of shade, especially on a hot summer’s day.

One of the most iconic and unique ways to get around Chiang Mai, whether you’re going a short or long distance is the red songtaew. Songtaew a red vans with two rows of seats in the back (hence their name – meaning two rows). There are many songtaews driving around the city, and can be flagged down like you would a taxi. Simply stop a songtaew and tell the driver where you want to go. You will have to negotiate the price with him, but songtaews tend to be a very cheap way to get around the city. Songtaews are also a good option for making day trips, as they can be hired for longer periods of time. If you wish to hire a songtaew for a longer period, it might be a good idea to ask at your guesthouse to help you arrange this, Day-rates are also quite cheap and having your own driver works out to be very convenient, as you don’t need to keep re-negotiating with a new driver each trip.

Chiang Mai also has no shortage of the iconic tuk-tuk. Like tuk-tuks in Bangkok and other places, riding a tuk-tuk is an experience all tourists must try. Remember to negotiate well with the driver before getting in. Motorbikes are also an increasingly popular and convenient way to get around the city, especially for short trips. Both tuk-tuks and motorbikes can be found in abundance in the main tourist areas such as the old quarter of Chiang Mai.

Perhaps the most notable museum that everyone should see is the Chiang Mai National Museum. The museum is located right next to Wat Jet Yot, and has a large variety of displays, pictures, artwork, and artefacts which tell the story of Chiang Mai’s history and Lanna society in the Northern region of Thailand. The museum is a fascinating place to explore Chiang Mai’s rich cultural heritage, and is open daily. Entrance is incredibly cheap at only 30 baht per person.

Another main attraction for those coming to Chiang Mai is the hill-tribe villages. Located in Ratchamankla Park, the Tribal Museum of Chiang Mai is an amazing chance to learn more about these ancient cultures of the ethnic groups in Chiang Mai and its local region. The museum has a number of impressive costumes, tools, artwork, and instruments belonging to various minority groups in the Chiang Mai region. The Tribal Museum is only open on weekdays from 9 to 4:30, and entry is free.

For those travelling as a family, why not check out the absolutely eccentric Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders. This museum looks at all kinds of amazingly rare insects, and offers guided tours in English. The museum is open daily, and admission is 300 baht for adults, and 100 baht for children, but this includes your personalised tour by the owner.

Chiang Mai’s Songkran festival is quite unique, and adds its own touch of regional and local culture, making it something quite spectacular. During the week long Songkran in Chiang Mai, visitors can enjoy all the festivities of the public water fight throughout the city. Join the procession of people on foot or in the back of pick-up trucks as you get hit by water coming from every direction! Some of the best parts of Chiang Mai to enjoy this aspect of Songkran are found within the old part of the city.

However, Songkran in Chiang Mai goes far beyond simple water fights en masse. This is perhaps the best place in Thailand to get a taste of the true culture and history behind Songkran. At one of the many historic temples in Thailand, events are held to make merit and listen to Buddhist sermons. There are also many cultural performances to be seen in the grounds of some temples, offering visitors a unique chance to see the beauty of Thai culture in a spectacular setting. Another highlight of Chiang Mai’s Songkran festival is the Songkran Beauty Pageant which is particularly well-known and well-regarded in Thailand.

Songkran is a unique festival for visitors, and is one festival not to be missed. The best place to see not only the excitement of the water fight, but also the fascinating cultural side to this festival is without a doubt Chiang Mai, where the true meaning of Songkran is alive and well with all the excitement tied in for good measure.

The Chiang Mai Flower Festival is more than just these amazing floral portraits and murals. During the festival, the town is alive with local markets and street-side stalls selling all kinds of interesting products and local handicrafts. It certainly is a great time to be in Chiang Mai if you’re interested in traditional wares from Thailand’s north, as many a bargain on some incredible items can be found during this time.

There is also a famous beauty pageant held during the festival, and this is a great chance to see something which has become a permanent fixture in Thai festivals and local culture. Numerous dancing shows accompany this pageant, which will give you a chance to enjoy traditional Thai dancing at its best.

Thai festivals are not to be missed, and if you like flowers, then this festival is an absolute must. Coming to Chiang Mai during the Flower Festival is an excellent idea as there is just so much on offer that will give you a real taste of local Thai culture and history, as well as the relaxed, friendly lifestyle that has made Chiang Mai so famous.